6 Things to consider when buying second hand golf clubs
If it seems too cheap avoid it like the plague as it is most probably a counterfeit. There are a lot of counterfeit clubs circulating at present. It is impossible to know until you hit a ball.
The shaft of the club is the most important element, consider – a regular shaft is for an average swing speed (7 iron up to 140 yards), stiff shaft for fast swing speeds (7 iron up to 170 yards) and extra stiff for very fast swing speeds (7 iron 170 yards +). Cheap graphite shafts have an excessive amount of torque (twist) if the ball is miss struck the club face twists at impact affecting the shot. This is a hard thing to know but remember that all top manufacturers will use quality shafts. With metal shafts – any sign of rust on the shaft or if the previous owner has put a tee peg in the grip for storage – AVOID, as golf clubs have a chrome finish on the outside, but not within. So any signs of rust show that it has rusted through and will snap.
The lie of the club (the angle at which it sits on the floor) should match your swing; on most clubs this angle can be changed to fit the golfer by any PGA professional for a small fee. There is a slight danger with cast clubs – the head can snap when altering the angle of the club which should be considered if buying blind.
Golf grip costs vary – from ÂŁ5 – ÂŁ15 per club. This is not excessive on a driver or fairway wood but with a full set of irons can add up
When purchasing a driver a standard head is draw enhancing (2 degrees closed) a tour head is fade enhancing (1 degree open).
When purchasing a set of irons try and buy them too long rather than too short as shortening a club is relatively cheap but lengthening a club can be costly. A rough rule of thumb 5”9 to 6” is standard length clubs, shorter players will need shorter clubs and taller players will require longer clubs.
Posted: March 31st, 2011 under Golf Tips.
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